Match of the week

Chocolate and almond cake with auslese riesling

Chocolate and almond cake with auslese riesling

I’ve never been wholly convinced that sweet white wines go with dark chocolate but have had to modify that view after a surprisingly successful pairing at my friends' this weekend.

The wine was a Prinz von Hessen Johannisberger Klaus Auslese Riesling from the warm 2005 vintage but still only 9% - far too light you’d think to go with a rich dark flourless chocolate and almond cake. But strangely it worked due mainly, I think, to the exotic passionfruit and dried mango notes in the 11 year old wine.

Passionfruit, of course, goes pretty well with white chocolate, I just hadn’t expected it to work as well with a dark chocolate dessert though the fact it contained 4 tbsp of rum (yes, four!) may have given it a tropical fruit character for the wine to latch onto.

I still think a lighter, less intense late harvest riesling would have struggled but it’s certainly worth experimenting with ones from a hot vintage.

Unfortunately I can’t find the wine currently on sale in the UK but you can obviously try similar wines.

The recipe - which is not difficult and absolutely delicious - is Claudia Roden’s and is available here.

Three things you need to think about when pairing wine with chocolate

Cherry, pistachio and coconut cake and Seifried 'Sweet Agnes' riesling

Cherry, pistachio and coconut cake and Seifried 'Sweet Agnes' riesling

Until last night I was confident what I was going to make my match of the week, this week - the unlikely but delicious combination of a Langhe Nebbiolo and Berkswell sheep’s cheese but last night I was blown away by this pairing.

The cake was one I’d been eyeing in the new Honey & Co cookbook, my favourite cookbook of the summer so far, having spotted it in their charming London café. It was as good as it looked - with a lovely flavour of cherry and coconut.

We cast around for something to drink with it and came up with a medal winning 2012* Seifried ‘Sweet Agnes’ late harvest riesling from the Nelson region of New Zealand, a really lovely, light (11%) graceful wine I’ve enjoyed before with desserts. You can buy it in several independents (check wine-searcher.com for outlets), branches of Laithwaite's and at selected branches of Waitrose and online at Waitrose Cellar for £13.99.

I’m also thinking a sweet red would be possible - a recioto della Valpolicella for example - or a cherry liqueur like Guignolet. Maybe even a Japanese plum wine …

Anyway the recipe is great. I’ll see if I can persuade the publisher Salt Yard to let me share it on the site but you should in any case buy the book.

* The current vintage is 2013

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